My hostel in Hsipaw shows a big sign at the reception: Trips to Namhsan are forbidden, restricted area for tourists. Bad luck because I really really wanted to visit Namhsan, a little mountain village which my guide book calls “the Switzerland of Myanmar”. Due to gun fights this area is now restricted for tourists, except you can arrange a special permission. To get this permit you need at least two weeks. Time which I do not have… Some voices said you can talk with the solders at the...